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Milla Handley held the most interesting vertical wine tasting I have ever attended; a tasting I still think about all the time.

Handley, whose family announced this week that she died on July 25 from Covid-19, touched many of us in her 35-year-career in the wine industry. She was a pioneer as a female winery owner and winemaker. She was one of the first to recognize the potential for Pinot Noir in Anderson Valley. She also was a longtime advocate for Alsatian white varieties in the area.

She was a quiet-but-resolute voice for balanced wines during the era when it seemed that everything in California was about bigger and better. In an often-guarded industry, she was disarmingly candid; she would tell you, while you were tasting a wine, that the harvest didn't happen on the day she wanted it to because she couldn't get a crew, or that she liked this vintage well enough, but it would have been better if not for that unexpected hot spell.

When I think of Milla Handley, I always think first of the 20-year vertical tasting in San Francisco she held of her flagship estate Pinot Noir. With the wines all lined up in front of us, we could see them getting gradually darker, and taste them getting gradually richer, as the 20th Century segued into the 21st. There were some one-year aberrations, but the darker-richer-higher alcohol pattern was clear, and unlike with other wineries, she had been in charge all along.

"We haven't done anything differently," Handley said. "That's what nature has given us."

It was the most convincing demonstration of the impact of climate change I have ever seen (or tasted). But that wasn't the point: Handley also wanted to show how well her Pinot Noirs aged, and in fact, the older wines were magnificent. As for the more recent ones, they weren't the '99 vintage, but they were still balanced, delicious, and great representations of Anderson Valley Pinot.

A woman of conviction

"What a strong person Milla was," Handley Cellars winemaker Randy Schock told Wine-Searcher. "Milla was really strong in her convictions about winemaking."

Handley hired Schock in 2004, along with another young winemaker.

"At that time Pinot Noir was really trendy and hot," Schock said. "A lot of oak, a lot of overripe fruit. We were excited about what we could do with that. We pushed Milla for that, for all these things. She smiled at us in our youth. She said, I'm comfortable with what we're doing and I'm going to stick to it. She wasn't one to follow. Before it became popular, it was lower alcohol, less oak. Good acidity. Not flabby wines."

Born in 1951 in San Francisco, Handley was one of the first female graduates in fermentation science from UC Davis. She worked at Chateau St Jean in Sonoma County before being hired in 1978 as assistant winemaker to Jed Steele at Edmeades in Mendocino County.

The estate started off making 250 cases of Chardonnay, but now is best known for its Pinot Noir.

The wine scene in Mendocino at the time was tiny, and most growers concentrated on growing grapes for sparkling wine. The Champagne house Roederer created a splash in 1982 by opening a US outpost in Anderson Valley. Less noticed at the time, Handley also decided to found her own winery, making 250 cases of Chardonnay with her family name on it. She thus became one of just six wineries in the area.

In 1986, she began planting her own estate vineyard. She planted Pinot Noir, but she also was always interested in Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer.

"In 2010, we had some new vineyards. I wanted to plant Dijon clones of Pinot Noir," Schock said. "She opted to plant Chardonnay. She looked around the valley and said: 'There isn't enough Chardonnay.' I think we're really known for beautiful, fruity, alternative white varietals. Also cool-climate Chardonnay, more of a restrained, traditional style. There was the whole anything-but-Chardonnay movement. Then people come and taste our Chardonnay and there's this granny smith apple, fruity, not oaky at all. She loved seeing people surprised by Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer. Look what's hip and cool now. She was really on it. She's OG."

Schock said that not only did Handley insist on planting white varieties when Pinot Noir paid more; she also kept planting older clones of Pinot Noir when the industry had rushed toward newer Dijon clones.

A style of her own

"She was looking for a style, where you kept coming back, looking for different layers," Schock said. "Those layers weren't going to happen with just a single set of clones. These are all so critical to our winemaking. Not that Dijon doesn't have its place. People were saying, you can't make great Pinot Noir with these older clones, the Martini clone, the Roederer sparkling clone. I think she proved them wrong. I'll taste these older wines 15 years later. She didn't filter them. She didn't pick them overripe, so they had acidity. They're lovely."

This isn't the only way Handley Cellars farms differently from others.

"People are all worried about viruses on grapevines. I have viruses on all my vines," Schock says. "They help me make a lower-alcohol wine. They reduce the vigor. I fear that when we have all these superclones, we're creating more problems."

Schock said that, while Handley may have been happiest with a glass of sparkling wine in her hand, working in the vineyard was a close second.

"This is contrary for an owner," Schock said. "If I was busy doing the production management, and I said: 'I need this from Redwood Valley,' Milla would be over there at 5am and back before I even got started. We have our RSM vineyard, one of the most remote vineyards in Anderson Valley. It took us six hours to get around and irrigate this vineyard. She was going up there every night with a gas can full of water from her car."

From the 1990s Handley developed a reputation in the San Francisco Bay Area as one of the best stops on the budding Anderson Valley wine trail. Handley's father Raymond collected folk art as part of his travels promoting clean water for African villages. The Handley Cellars tasting room was full of interesting tribal art, and offered friendly tastes of quality wines without a fee. It wasn't unusual to see Milla herself take a turn behind the tasting bar.

"She loved being a hostess, setting the tables for guests," Schock said. "I can remember in the ranch house, when a guest would show up and we weren't ready, she would go over with the staff and change linens. It's not what you expect from a winery owner."

Handley is survived by two daughters, including Lulu McLellan, who takes over as owner of the winery. The family hopes to hold a memorial service at a later date, and asks that instead of flowers, to please consider donating to the Anderson Valley Senior Center.

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Let’s go ahead and take 10 seconds to get the Sutter Home white Zinfandel and supermarket swill jokes out of the way.

Feel better?

Hold your nose if you have to, serious wine drinker, but who can pass up free wine in Napa? After all, free wine tasting is about as rare in the Napa Valley as a bottle of 1973 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon.

But if you’re moving about 10 million cases of wine annually, as Sutter Home is, offering complimentary 5-ounce wine flights must be a drop in the dump bucket.

Step inside the Sutter Home tasting room, which occupies a prime spot on Highway 29 in St. Helena, and you’ll find something of a higher-end Sutter Home supermarket. Rows upon rows of Sutter Homes wines, some of them like the 2011 Zinfandel only available at the tasting room, share retail floor space with its standard offerings of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.

The tasting experience starts with a dilemma for the wine drinker on a budget — or, those milking every bit of fermented juice from their day in Napa. Do you opt for the free tasting, or play your baller status and go for the $5 “Founder’s Reserve” tasting of five 1-ounce samples? You can’t do both. Given local ordinances, guests can only consume 5 ounces maximum at a complimentary tasting.

The free lineup of five wines, poured in bitty 1-ounce samples, is presented from dry to sweet. That ranges from a grassy Sauvignon Blanc and earthy Pinot Noir with a light 13.2% alcohol level, to a duo of sangrias that veer into the Hawaiian Punch zone.

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Community

There are all sorts of combinations out there that just work. One of them is wine and cheese. Everyone knows wine and cheese pairings are a hallmark of summer and owner at Vara Winery + Distillery Doug Diefenthaler discussed some wine and cheese pairing ideas for Albariño Days.

“There’s nothing better on a summer’s afternoon in the shade than sharing with a friend some Capricho de Cabra, a mild Spanish Murcian goat’s milk cheese, a chilled bottle of cool and crisp Vara Albariño, along with a fresh sliced pear and some Marcona Almonds. Harmonious, delicious, appetizing, and oh so friendly” says wine enthusiast Doug Diefenthaler, owner of Vara Winery + Distillery, located in Albuquerque.

Vara’s Albarino is a bright and versatile compliment to any table of flavorful light to medium bodied dishes. It shows as much of an affinity for seafood as it does for poultry. It’s at home with a broad spectrum of cuisines from Pan Asian to Pacific Rim from Mediterranean to Mid-Eastern and American Southwestern cuisine. Serve chilled on a hot summer night.

“Wine professionals are taught early on to “buy wine with bread and sell wine with cheese” – bread unmasks and unveils the wine, you’ll notice it’s flaws if it has them. You sell wine with cheese because it is all good – but some pairings are even better. You can turn something average into something spectacular. You will not disappoint anyone with wine and cheese. They really like each other a lot.”

With 30 years in the wine industry, Diefenthaler knows his stuff. “Then, there is magic. These pairings are right on, enchanting. Harmonious. But the most important part of pairings is enjoying the experience and the people you are with.”

Try these pairings at home

2018 VARA Albariño –Made right here in Albuquerque, New Mexico with Spanish Capricho de Cabra with herbs, Marcona Almonds, and freshly sliced pear
Vara Viña Cardinal – an aperitif, served with New Mexico pistachios for day drinking and telling lies
Vara Tempranillo – Serve with 12 month Aged Manchego Spanish Cheese, a little Jamón ibérico or sliced Spanish chorizo
Come on by Vara Winery + Distillery to pick up a couple of bottles. You can purchase any of the accompaniments listed at your local Whole Foods or fine grocer.

Vara is an international family of Spanish and American wines celebrating the origins of the American wine experience thanks to the historical connection of Spain and New Mexico. Vara’s craft distillery is producing Spanish and American brandy and whiskey, rye,rum, gin, and vermouth available soon. Some wines have a story, they have a history.

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Mike Snider USA TODAY

Published 3:33 PM EDT Aug 4, 2020

Time is always relative, Einstein said, but during the coronavirus pandemic our frames of reference are skewed. Each day seems like the last, with not much difference expected tomorrow.

Marketers want to spice up your days and they have made-up food and drink holidays aplenty. For instance, Tuesday is National White Wine Day and to celebrate wine maker Ecco Domani has released a limited-edition Pinot Grigio with a special label created by fashion designer Brandon Maxwell. You can find the wine ($10.99) nationwide using Ecco Domani's online product locator.

Since pandemic time is relative, you can still celebrate National Wine and Cheese Day (July 25) the Kellogg's way: pairing wine such as rosé with White Cheddar Cheez-Its.

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For the last two years, Kellogg's and Original House Wine of Walla Walla, Washington, have collaborated on special combo-packs of a three-liter box of wine and about 20 servings of Cheez-Its, which sold out quickly. For more wine and Cheez-It cracker pairings go to CheezIt.com.

If you like your wine a bit more bubbly, National Prosecco Day is coming up on Aug. 13. Prefer red wine? International Pinot Noir Day is Aug. 18, National Red Wine Day is Aug. 28, International Cabernet Sauvignon Day is Aug. 30 and National Cabernet Day is Sept. 3.

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National Chocolate Chip Cookie Day

If you prefer sweets, on Tuesday you can also celebrate National Chocolate Chip Cookie Day.

Participating Corner Bakery Cafe locations will offer a free chocolate chip cookie or Monster Cookie for customers on Tuesday. Those who come in can also snap a picture of their cookie, post it on social media and tag Corner Bakery with the hashtag #CBCChocoChip for a chance to win free cookies for a year.

At BJ’s Restaurant & Brewhouse, get the chain’s Chocolate Chunk Pizookie, served in its own deep-dish pan and topped with rich vanilla-bean ice cream, for $3 Tuesday.

Customers at Japanese fast-food chain Yoshinoya will receive double loyalty points on all orders placed through the Yoshinoya app or online that contain a chocolate chip cookie through Aug. 9.

Entenmann’s Little Bites snacks has a “Chip, Chip, Hooray Giveaway!” where 10,000 fans will have a chance to win a free box of the new Little Bites Soft Bakes Chocolate Chip Cookies. Enter through Aug. 27 at https://ift.tt/2Ej4sYp.

Those with a sweet tooth more to look forward to: National Root Beer Float Day (Aug. 6), National Frozen Custard Day (Aug. 8) and National S'mores Day (Aug. 10).

Mustard in beer – worth celebrating?

You may not have known that Aug. 1 was National Mustard Day. For that made-up food holiday, French's mustard teamed with Oskar Blues Brewery to create a French's Mustard beer.

Truly tasting better than it sounds, each batch of the tropical wheat ale has 150 pounds of French’s Classic Yellow Mustard as well as key lime, lemon, tangerine, and passion fruit to create a tropical wheat ale. Evidently beer lovers were curious enough that it has already sold out on CraftShack.com.

More beer! National IPA Day and International Beer Day

Beer lovers have plenty to celebrate with the impending "holidays" of National IPA Day (Aug, 6) and International Beer Day (Aug. 7).

Anheuser-Busch is holding an online International Beer Festival (starting at 6 p.m. ET Friday on InternationalBeerFest.org and on Facebook, YouTube, Twitter and Instagram) featuring its brands including Budweiser, Michelob Ultra and Stella Artois. Events include a tour of the  Anheuser-Busch brewery in St. Louis and a concert by Jason Derulo.

Another virtual beer celebration, Fresh Fest, is tapped on Saturday (Aug. 8). The daylong Pittsburgh festival celebrating Black-owned and brewed beer in the U.S. will have speakers, live music, DJs and cooking and brewing demonstrations.

Thirty breweries from 26 states are participating and you can get the eight Fresh Fest collaboration beers delivered by Tavour. For more information, go to FreshFestDigifest.com.

Like whiskey? Why wait to celebrate

You can mark your calendars now for National Whiskey Day on March 27, 2021. But why wait to partake?

In recent years, many musicians including Bob Dylan and Metallica have gotten into the whiskey game. The newest booze, Eric Church Single Barrel Tennessee Whiskey is a collaboration between Jack Daniels and Eric Church, who released a song called "Jack Daniels" on his 2011 triple-platinum album "Chief."

The Lynchburg, Tennessee-based distillery says Church helped select the barrels for the whiskey, which has an aroma of sweet vanilla and caramel accompanied by toasted and charred oak. Packaged in a specially designed black and gold label, Eric Church Single Barrel Tennessee Whiskey is now arriving at retailers.

Jack Daniels is also serving up entertainment with its Crash the Couch virtual music festival August 14-15 with performances by headliners Brittany Howard of the Alabama Shakes, Cold War Kids and Nathaniel Rateliff and other acts including Black Pumas and Hiss Golden Messenger. For more information go to the festival website CrashTheCouch.com.

Contributing: Kelly Tyko

Follow Mike Snider on Twitter: @MikeSnider.

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