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Cautious Optimism on Wine Country Fires | Wine-Searcher News & Features - Wine-Searcher

Cautious Optimism on Wine Country Fires | Wine-Searcher News & Features - Wine-Searcher

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"No horrible news" has become good news in 2020, and thus we have good news to report about California's wine country fires.

The LNU Lightning Complex burning in five counties, but mostly in Napa and Sonoma, is – at 547 square miles as of Monday morning – now the second-largest fire in recorded California history. It's bigger than the city of Berlin or the city of Los Angeles, and is getting close to the size of Greater London. It has destroyed 845 structures already, and it's only 22 percent contained.

So how is that good news? Well, weather forecasters had predicted high winds Sunday night with a repeat of the dry lightning that started this mess. Fortunately, that didn't happen. Instead of the more than 10,000 lightning strikes that started California's week of fire hell, on Sunday night we got only 289. This did start 10 new fires, giving us 625 fires burning in the state. But the LNU fire was predicted to get much bigger, and instead it grew only 9 percent on Sunday night.

The unexpectedly milder night was good news for the 1700 firefighters pulling 72-hour shifts on the LNU fire, as well as the more than 12,000 firefighters working in other parts of the state. Another Bay Area fire, the SCU Lightning Complex mostly east of Silicon Valley, is almost as large as the LNU fire, making it third all-time right now behind the 2018 Mendocino Complex fire, which reached 717 square miles.

In northern Sonoma County, firefighters have so far been able to successfully defend the city of Guerneville, which was evacuated last week. Homes were burned in the city of Vacaville in Solano County last week, and homes in rural areas of wine country have unfortunately been destroyed, but so far the fire has not made the impact on wine country cities that the fires of 2017 did.

More unexpected good news came from the White House. Last week, President Trump threatened to cut off federal fire-relief funding to the largest state in the union – the state that contributes the most to the federal budget.

"Maybe we're just going to make them pay for it because they don't listen to us," Trump said at a rally in Pennsylvania.

Fortunately, Trump backed down and issued a major disaster declaration for seven Northern California counties, including Napa, Sonoma, Lake and Santa Cruz. This makes homeowners and business owners eligible for federal disaster relief funds.

Something in the air

As for the air quality, let's stick with that no-horrible-news narrative. Air quality is unhealthy again on Monday afternoon in San Francisco, but residents were able to open their windows on Sunday night as the air quality improved.

Extreme smoke remains unpredictable in local areas, and of course this matters for harvesting wine grapes. Santa Rosa, the largest city in Sonoma County, had very good air for several days despite the fires raging to the north, east and west. Only in the last two days has air quality deteriorated.

The city of Napa is similar: nice clean air until Saturday, August 22, but bad air since; the air in Napa reached "Very Unhealthy" on Sunday afternoon, according to the government-run Air Quality Index.

That said, the Sonoma Sheriff tweeted a picture Monday afternoon on its official Twitter account of undamaged Korbel Winery. Korbel had been one of the first wineries evacuated last week, and is near the still-burning LNU fire. The skies behind the winery were blue and the caption read: "The bubbles are awaiting your return."

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Wine Press - 4 Great Italian Pinot Grigio Wines (Mostly) Under $10 - MassLive.com

Wine Press - 4 Great Italian Pinot Grigio Wines (Mostly) Under $10 - MassLive.com

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I’ve always been a fan of underdogs.

The horse with 50 to 1 odds. (Remember Mind That Bird, the 2009 winner of the Kentucky Derby?)

A number 16 seed miraculously knocking out a top seed in the first round of the NCAA men’s college basketball tournament. (Remember University of Maryland Baltimore in 2018?)

A baseball team down three games to none in the bottom of the ninth in a best-of-seven series against their arch rivals. (Who can ever forget the 2004 Red Sox?)

Maybe that’s why I have a bit of a soft spot for Pinot Grigio wines.

Talk to some so-called wine experts and you might think Pinot Grigio is responsible for everything that’s wrong with the world, from global warming to culottes.

For some time, I have noticed that Pinot Grigio has become the preferred punching bag for many wine snobs.

It’s too light.

It’s too bland.

It’s too cheap.

It’s too popular.

Yes, God forbid too many people actually like a particular wine.

One “expert sommelier” interviewed this year in a prominent magazine even went to so far as to say that “Pinot grigio shouldn’t even be considered wine.”

Seriously?

All Pinot Grigios are terrible?

There’s not a single good one?

As John McEnroe used to say, you cannot be serious.

Don’t get me wrong. I realize there are bad Pinot Grigios out there. Just like there are bad Chardonnays or Pinot Noirs or any wine for that matter.

So this week, as we head into the last, sultry days summer (I know summer doesn’t technically end for another month or so but Labor Day’s just around the corner), I thought now would be a great time to highlight a few, refreshing Pinot Grigios from Italy for under $10 a bottle. I hope you enjoy them as well.

WINES RECOMMENDED THIS WEEK

2019 Cabert Friuli Pinot Grigio ($8.99 at Table & Vine in West Springfield)

2019 Barone Fini Valdaige Pinot Grigio ($12.99 at Table & Vine)

2019 Voga Pinot Grigio ($9.99 at Table & Vine)

2019 Cinta Pinot Grigio ($8.99 at Table & Vine)

ABOUT PINOT GRIGIO

Pinot Grigio wines have been around since the 1200s in parts of France, particularly in the Burgundy region. Nowadays, you can find Pinot Grigio wines from around the world. These light, refreshing wines often have a slightly floral and citrus-like finish. That’s why I personally think they’re among the best summer white wines ideal for hot, sunny days. And I’m not alone. Pinot Grigio wines are the third most popular wines in the United States. (You can read more next week about the most popular wine.)

PINOT GRIGIO VS. PINOT GRIS

It’s easy to confuse Pinot Grigio with Pinot Gris. That’s because they’re the exact same grape. It’s just a matter what certain wine growing areas call wine made from this versatile grape. Italian winemakers call this grape Pinot Grigio. French winemakers call this grape Pinot Gris. As for the rest of the world, take your pick. Both names are often used, sometimes in the same wine growing area.

WHERE PINOT GRIGIO GRAPES ARE GROWN

You can still find Pinot Gris wines in France, especially in the Alsace region. But there are many other regions where Pinot Grigio wines thrive, including California, Oregon, Australia, New Zealand and parts of Germany. But when it comes to Pinot Grigio, Italy resigns supreme, especially in the Alto Adige region in northern Italy.

WINE TASTING NOTES

2019 Cabert Friuli Pinot Grigio

Region - Friuli, Italy

Tasting Notes - Made with Pinot Grigio grapes grown in the Friuli Grave region, which is part of the larger Friuli Venezia Giulia region in northeastern Italy, this bright, light, refreshing white wine abounds with lemon and lime flavors that seem to dance on the tip of your tongue. There’s also a slight hint of grapefruit flavors on the finish, which make this citrus-like wine a perfect, warm summer afternoon drink.

2019 Barone Fini Valdaige Pinot Grigio

Region - Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy

Tasting Notes - Made with Pinot Grigio grapes from 25 to 30 year old vines in the Valdadige region, which is part of the larger Trentino-Alto Adige region, this wonderful, flinty, refreshing wine has a wide range of subtle flavors - from hints of lemon and grapefruit to a touch of melon. Definitely the most understated of the four wines and one of my favorite, affordable white wines this summer.

2019 Voga Pinot Grigio

Region - Venezie, Italy

Tasting Notes - Made with Pinot Grigio grapes from Italy’s Venezie region (which is part of the Friuli Venezia Giulia), this crisp, clean, dry white wine packaged in a modern-looking capsule-like glass bottle just might make you rethink what’s possible for Pinot Grigio wines. Here, the flavors have a more mineral-like finish with a hint of sea salt. Yes, there are definitely hints of lemon and lime familiar to fans of Italian Pinot Grigio. But I was impressed by the range of flavors and their subtlety.

2019 Cinta Pinot Grigio

Region - Veneto, Italy

Tasting Notes - Made with Pinot Grigio grapes grown in Italy’s Veneto region in the northeastern corner of the country, this wonderful white wine has a lovely, bright, refreshing finish. Flavors range from lemon to hints of lime and a touch of grapefruit. Here again, this delightful white wine tastes as refreshing as diving into a cool, crisp ocean on a warm, sunny afternoon.

Cheers!

Wine Press by Ken Ross appears on Masslive.com every Monday and in The Republican’s weekend section every Thursday.

Follow Ken Ross on Twitter and Instagram and Facebook.

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The Wines of the Summer, According to Philly Wine Pros - Philadelphia magazine

The Wines of the Summer, According to Philly Wine Pros - Philadelphia magazine

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Guides

Sparkling rosés, pet-nats from Lebanon, and the only red wine you should be drinking when the weather’s like this.

summer wines

Bloomsday owner Zach Morris picks an Italian as one of the best summer wines. | Photo provided

We’re nearing the end of August, somehow. Which means we’re nearing the end of summer, somehow. But as we’re all well aware, the weather — especially ’round these parts — pays no heed to the Roman calendar, and in Philly, it’s summer until it stops being hot outside. So let’s keep it rolling. We a compiled a list of wine bottles that will keep summer going strong. Wines as refreshing as lemonade, as interesting as those in your rich uncle’s cellar, as easy-drinking as they oughtta be in times like these. These are, according to eight wine professionals in Philly, the wines of the summer.

Jill Weber

Owner of Jet Wine Bar and Garden

Couvent Rouge LebNat Gold
“I have drunk so much of this Lebanese pet-nat. It is really my go-to right now. Why? Most importantly, it is delicious. Perfect, long-lasting bubbles, great minerality, super refreshing, hint of a tropical fruit that I can’t place so I just keep drinking trying to figure it out. It is unfined and unfiltered, which adds a touch of heft. Also, importantly, it is from Lebanon, and wow, do they need our support right now. Finally, it has an awesome story: The Bekaa Valley — home to a wine-making tradition several millennia long — was home to criminally-organized cannabis production due the economic and social fallout from the Civil War of the ’70s and ’80s. The lands that these grapes are from were reclaimed from that illicit trade, and now support almost 300 grape growers in a cooperative.”

Zach Morris

Owner of Bloomsday, Fancy Wine Club

Denny Bini “Spuma” Lambrusco di Sorbara
“If ever there was a ‘summer wine’ it might wanna be a rosé, and it might wanna have some bubbles. Spuma has both! And Denny Bini is a top champion of the modern, sustainable movement in the region. This wine is bottle re-fermented and has plenty of natural nuance, but really nails it as a refreshment in the same way sour cherries do. It’s so darn fresh and tart and light on its feet. Not to mention it comes from the land of picnic-able foods, Emilia-Romagna. This thing was built for cured meats like prosciutto di Parma, mortadella and also for hard, salty snacking cheeses like Parmigiano-Reggiano and Grana Padano. Crusty bread, some olives, a nice, safely distanced picnic with friends and you’re on your way to the best summer wine experience you can get in a pandemic.”

Photo provided

Sande Friedman

Di Bruno Bros. beverage manager and Philly Wine Cru president

Edmunds St. John ‘Bone Jolly’ Gamay
“Every year Edmunds St. John ‘Bone Jolly’ Gamay is my favorite summer wine. We carry both the red and rosé gamay options. These minimalist wines come from a favorite old-school winemaker in the Sierra Foothills, and can appease both natural wine palates and those who prefer a more classic profile alike. Light, bright and precise, all these wines need are a good chill and your favorite cheese.”

Photo provided

Maureen Shannon

Bar manager at ITV

Mariotti Bianco Dell’emilia Smarazen
I’m a lover of natural wines — especially sparkling. I was delighted when I found one of my go-to’s at Fountain Porter in South Philly (they have an amazing selection), the Mariotti Bianco Dell’emilia Smarazen. It’s a blend of Trebbiano and Malvasia, native grapes to the Emilia-Romagna region. It’s refreshing, herbaceous, citrusy with a delightful savory, salty finish. Transports you to the beach!”

Photo provided

Frank Kinyon

Service and beverage director at a.kitchen+bar

Weingut Rainer Sauer Silvaner

“It’s a super high-toned, high-acid and mineral dry German white with a touch of dry herbs. It is great on its own or with simply prepared summer vegetables.”

Chloe Grigri

Owner of Le Caveau and the Good King Tavern

Domaine Rimbert, Cousin Oscar
“I love chill-able, punchy reds all summer long (and beyond, really) and this Cinsault from the Languedoc hits the spot every time. It’s singing like a cold cherry cola on a hot summer day in 1970 (‘Now and Then’ style) with notes of crunchy cranberries, tomato leaf and white pepper. Chill it. Crush it. You won’t be sorry.

Photo provided

Etinosa Emokpae

Sommelier at Friday Saturday Sunday
La Agricola Cara Sur Criolla Chica Barreal, 2019

“I have been reaching for reds more this summer, surprisingly. My favorite right now is 2019 La Agricola Cara Sur Criolla Chica Barreal. It’s from Argentina and 100 percent Criolla Chica aka País. This wine is bursting with tart raspberry and rhubarb flavors. Also, it has amazing violet and eucalyptus aromas. With a chill, this wine drinks like a more structured rosé that you can have as an aperitif or with food.”

Photo provided

Terence Lewis

Beverage Director at Safran Turney Hospitality and Philly Wine Cru

Domaine Les Hautes Noëlles, Muscadet
“This summer’s extreme and oppressive heat has been coupled with dining outside only. This is a brisk and mineral-y wine thats lean, yet flavorful. Fights back the humidity with its low alcohol and citrusy fruits. Great outdoors-y wine that goes great with seafood and vegetables.”

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Clean Wines, Explained: Separating Fact From Fiction in Winemaking’s Newest Trend - Robb Report

Clean Wines, Explained: Separating Fact From Fiction in Winemaking’s Newest Trend - Robb Report

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The bottle of wine I ordered from Cameron Diaz tells me quite a few things—it’s made with organic grapes (kudos!); free from added sugar, artificial colors and concentrates (serious shade to some other wines); and vegan-friendly (more on that later). The label even tells me how to pronounce the name of this new Avaline brand the actress and her business partner Katherine Porter just launched, although it didn’t seem too necessary. For the record, it’s “/ah-vah-leene/.” Less helpful, I’m told that the beverage is “white wine” (what grapes and from where you have to dig around the website to find out) with a “dry with a crisp, fresh finish,” and that it pairs well with fresh-cut flowers and my favorite meal (any meal at all?).

Avaline is one of a handful of new brands styling themselves as “clean wines,” a newly minted marketing moniker unabashedly chasing the $52+ billion wellness market, a veritable lifestyle industrial complex that primarily targets Millennials. With the tagline “When wine comes clean” on its website, and claims that it’s “transparently produced, full of natural goodness and free of unnecessary extras,” Avaline aims to convince people that drinking booze is compatible with healthy living. Even less subtle is Good Clean Wine. It’s, um, called Good Clean Wine and says it “pairs with a healthy lifestyle.” Wonderful Wine Company, launched in May by Winc Wines, offers “wellness without deprivation.” And Scout & Cellar chimes in with “clean wine for better living.” There’s no shortage of sun-dappled Instagram pages, boozy bubble baths, poolside day drinking and millennial pink in the lifestyle these brands are pedaling.

Clean wine is the latest iteration—and possibly the least meaningful—of the hands-off trends in winemaking. Think “natural” or “minimalist,” both terms (like “clean”) that have no legal definition. Sure, there’s merit to the implied principles of “clean” winemaking—presumably minimal synthetic chemicals in the vineyard and few unnatural additions in the winery. After all, more than 70 additives and processing agents are allowed in U.S. winemaking, from the fairly innocuous (if terroir-busting) acid to punch up brightness and the grape concentrate Mega Purple to lend more color, flavor and richness (the “artificial colors and concentrates” disavowed on the Avaline label) to the more ominous-sounding fining agent protease, which is derived from pig or cow stomachs. Hence, abstaining from using those, which Avaline does, makes a wine vegan.

“Most consumers of clean wines assume the grapes are organically grown and fewer inputs are used in production,” says Libby Mills, a nutritionist at Villanova University College of Nursing. “But there is no way to know for sure.” So clean wine can mean whatever a company wants it to mean. Still, she gives the movement the benefit of the doubt as “a natural extension of consumer interest in organics and the desire to enjoy foods and wine that are both good for their bodies and the environment,” adding “one can assume that in a clean wine there won’t be a long list of ingredients that go into the production. And those on the list will be used only as needed—like yeast—or minimally.” But, she admits, “this is not very conclusive, nor does it rule out the use of Mega Purple, though the likelihood is low.”

With no clarity in the category, and the fact that producers aren’t required to reveal exactly what goes into their wine, Mills advocates educating oneself about—and trusting—the certifications that do have legal parameters, like USDA Organic (a rigorous protocol for the actual production of wine) and the USDA’s broader “Made with Organic Grapes” label certifying farming methods. And while Mills doesn’t believe wine should be eschewed altogether, she does point out, like a nutritionist would, that alcohol is a toxin.

avaline Katherine Porter cameron diaz

Avaline’s founders enjoying their wares.  Photo: courtesy Justin Coit

At her Oakland wine shop Bay Grape, Stevie Stacionis features winemakers who utilize sustainable farming methods, but she’s at a loss when it comes to clean wine. “What does it even mean?” she says. “It feels like suddenly wine is being marketed in the same way diet foods are.” To underscore the uselessness of the term to buyers, in her view, Stacionis points out that in the wine profession, “clean” is used to describe a wine that doesn’t have any official flaws, like Brettanomyces or volatile acidity. “This ‘clean’ term, though,” she says, “is somehow trying to imply that a wine has minimal intervention, but [in trade terms] it could be very ‘dirty’!”

After all this talk of certification and education, I take this “clean wine” market research to my own millennial focus group of two—my daughter and her boyfriend (Audrey and Joey), whose joint progress toward wine connoisseurship has been arrested by craft beer (still I have hope). What would they think a clean wine should be? “I’d think the workers in the vineyard would be treated well,” says Joey. “No shady deals under the table,” adds Audrey. Not what I expected! However, theirs is more of an appeal for fair trade, which isn’t the expressed aim of clean wine.

My bottle of Avaline white gives no clues about worker treatment or fruit procurement—which, I have to admit, would be nice to know when it comes to a large-production, private-label wine “made” in Spain. Its actual lack of transparency, in spite of professing such, suggests that its clean image and claims of boosting well-being may just be so many well-worn tropes dressed up for the latest lifestyle fad. Still, the wine is pretty tasty. I can confirm that “dry with a crisp, fresh finish” bit, and would go even further, with hints of jasmine and fresh, resiny herbs over puckery lemon-lime and white nectarine … It’s going down easy during a California heat wave.

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