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The German-speaking Tyrolean village of Magrè is a tidy, quiet, ancient burg of about 1,300 people in Alto Adige, a small, mountainous region in northern Italy acclaimed for its cool-climate white wines.

Along the western side of the Adige river valley, orderly vineyards climb up the dolomitic limestone cliffs behind the town, with its historic buildings dating to the 13th century.

Yet Magrè is more than another postcard town along the region’s strada del vino, or weinstrasse. It’s a center for avant-garde winemaking, thanks to Alois Lageder. Now 70 and in his 46th vintage, Lageder helped pioneer biodynamic agriculture and modern winemaking in Alto Adige, as he built the family winery from a regional bulk producer into one that makes 100,000 cases of quality wines sold in 40 countries.

Today, the winery regularly makes 40 wines (see Wine Spectator blind-tasting reviews) and works with more than 30 grape varieties across the region, from local Lagrein and Schiava to the more broadly popular Pinot Bianco and Pinot Grigio.

In the past eight years, Lageder’s son, Alois Clemens Lageder, 32, has helped him launch a new and even more daring era.

In an eco-friendly winery, built here 25 years ago and powered by what was then Italy’s largest solar-energy installation, Clemens leads me through a tasting of some of their 100-plus “experiments,” arrayed in small steel tanks and wood barrels. These are a crazy mix of heirloom and international grapes, varied clones and grapes picked at different ripeness—all fermented with indigenous yeasts with a range of techniques, including whole cluster, whole berry and skin contact for whites.

“We want to find answers to certain questions,” says Clemens, 32, who is tall, lean and blue-eyed like his father. Over the past five years he has been overseeing the winemaking. “In order to find answers, we need to be radical.”

“All the experiments are important,” he adds. “Even if they turn out shitty, they are important for us to learn.”

Alois Clemens Lageder in the winery's barrel cellar

In the cellar, Alois Clemens Lageder is experimenting with everything from heat-tolerant grape varieties to skin-contact whites but always sticks with native yeasts. (Robert Camuto)

Lageder is still known for its classics, like its Cabernet Sauvignon–Petit Verdot blend from the steep Cor Römigberg vineyard (2015, 91 points, $65) and its Löwengang Chardonnay (2016, 90 points, $50).

But to keep its edge, in recent years, the winery has bottled and released some of its experiments, typically small batches of 10 to 80 cases, called “Comets.” In some vintages, there’s a wine called Tik, made from the Greek variety Assyrtiko, which thrives in hot weather. Another wine, called Zie, is a field blend (sometimes made as a white and sometimes as a red) from the collection of 150-plus varieties planted by the late naturalist Rainer Zierock (and ex-husband of Trentino winemaker Elisabetta Foradori). Then there is my new favorite white summer sipper, called Bla Bla Bla, which blends three vintages of Blatterle, a nearly extinct local heirloom variety, made with light skin contact.

“When the DOC was created in Alto Adige, they forgot to include Blatterle,” says the elder Lageder. “It’s ridiculous, but we can’t call it Blatterle, so we call it Bla.”

Later this year, Alois plans to formally retire and hand the last of his duties over to the sixth generation, led by Clemens with his two sisters. Reflecting on his career one early summer morning, Alois credits his two greatest influences: his mother and the late pioneering California vintner Robert Mondavi.

The Lageder family began wine trading in the nearby city of Bolzano nearly 200 years ago; in the 19th century, when the Alto Adige was still part of Austria, the family began its own négociant business, making wine from purchased grapes. That model changed in 1935, when Alois’ father bought the Löwengang estate in Magrè, which includes one of the region’s oldest vineyards, dating to 1875. The plot is filled with pergola-trained Carmenère, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, which were among the many imported varieties planted in the region under Austrian rule in the 19th century.

In the mid 1970s, when Alois took over the winery, it still sold most of its wine in bulk as red table wine or as base wine for spumante. The vineyards were farmed conventionally, but Alois’ ideas were shaped by his mother, who had studied the esoteric teachings of biodynamics founder Rudolf Steiner.

Among Alois Lageder's legacies will be Alto Adige's reputation for cutting-edge, quality wines. (Robert Camuto)

“I grew up with the idea from my mother of looking at nature. So I knew I couldn’t continue to farm conventionally—always working against nature,” says Alois, walking to a vineyard newly planted on the valley’s gentle slope below Magrè. “But at the time, you couldn’t just think of converting a whole farm—the convention was so strong.”

With resistance to change even from within his own family, Alois had to wait 20 years to completely convert the estate to biodynamics.

“To convert the plants was easy,” Alois says with a laugh. “To change the minds of the workers here and others was difficult. There was a lot of resistance.”

Read Part 2 of Lageder: The Tyrolean Avant Garde on Aug. 18.

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North Georgia wineries and tasting rooms are serving up something special with 2020 Wine Highway, despite the coronavirus pandemic.

Coordinated by Georgia Wine Producers, the annual event takes place over the entire month of August. People are invited to purchase a $50 passport that gives up to four tastings at each of the 28 participating wineries and tasting rooms, except for Yonah Mountain Vineyards, which instead offers one 4-ounce glass.

People can pick up a passport and a complimentary wine glass at the first winery or tasting room they visit.

Karla Roper, executive director of Georgia Wine Producers, said the annual Wine Highway typically encompasses 10 days in March. However, because of the pandemic, the event was postponed and lengthened to all of August.

“We felt by extending it a month long, it would allow people to visit the vineyards and not overwhelm the locations,” Roper said. “We didn’t want to make people uncomfortable with the large crowds.”

Those who travel to the properties are asked to follow the safety protocols put in place at each to prevent the spread of COVID-19. Roper said most vineyards stick to outdoor seating with tables spaced out by at least 6 feet.

Instead of asking people to use their Wine Highway glasses, Matt Vrahiotes, owner of Sweet Acre Farms Winery in Alto, said his business will use disposable ones to limit customer-to-staff contact.

Before the pandemic, he said people would crowd around the bar to drink wine, now guests will be presented with all four of the tasting glasses, which they can take to their seats.

“This is our second year as a part of Wine Highway,” Vrahiotes said. “The reason why we want to be a part of this is because it brings people from all over the state and country to our farm to try our wine.”

During the Wine Highway event, The Cottage Vineyard and Winery in Cleveland, sees thousands of guests, according to Angela Reilly, its tasting room manager. As a small business, Reilly said she is grateful for the opportunity to participate for the seventh year in a row.

“We were worried that we weren’t going to be able to do it this year,” she said. “We’re glad we’ve been able to spread it out because of the virus to keep our customers and staff safe.”

Visitors will be able to pick up disposable cups with wine at The Cottage Vineyard and Winery. Guests will also receive a piece of paper that outlines the tasting notes of each wine.

Before the end of 2020 Wine Highway, Roper said she hopes people try new wine and find some new favorites.

“Our growers and producers have the desire to produce good wine,” Ropers aid. “We want to show that Georgia can produce good wine.”

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”Recycle, repurpose, relax” is the new mantra in wine tourism: You can spend the night in an enormous wine barrel or emptied-out tank, and now wineries from Paso Robles, Calif., to Jerez, Spain, have transformed industrial-size shipping crates and historic cottages into suites for tired taster-travelers. They're among the growing number of sustainability-conscious wineries giving their old buildings and tools a second look.

Paso Robles’ Cass Winery owners Steve Cass and Ted Plemons dreamed of hosting guests on the property to share their wines. In June, Cass opened a hotel with a design as unexpected as the sparkling Viognier it produces. The suites are built from repurposed (and very heavy) ingredients: shipping containers. “We wanted an overnight experience that people would remember and talk about,” Cass told Unfiltered via email; he dubbed it Geneseo Inn.

A place to chill: The new Geneseo Inn at Cass Winery is constructed from shipping containers like those used to transport grapes and wine; most of these are 8' by 20'. (11th Street Studio / Courtesy of Cass Winery)

The crates, which had carried freight from China, ticked a few boxes for Cass: The distinctive, eco-friendly design comprises 20 containers fashioned into eight accommodations plus an office area. It’s also “compatible with the vineyard,” as such containers (usually occupied by grapes or wine) are a common sight at the winery. Architect Walter Scott Perry and his firm Ecotech constructed the compound, which sits in Cass' Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards, with each suite given a rock moniker like “Bohemian Rhapsody” or “Easy Rider." According to Perry, the creative repurposing goes beyond the containers: Recovered wood, metal barn siding and recycled tiles were also incorporated into Geneseo Inn’s design. “The project has already become a model for practical yet unique and innovative sustainable design for lodging,” he said.

But the crates at Geneseo Inn can hold humans, quite comfortably. (11th Street Studio / Courtesy of Cass Winery)

Up in Washington, Alexandria Nicole Vineyards is inviting guests to sleep among the vines as well, on the Columbia River. Between bottling Merlot, rosé and even hand sanitizer, the winery found the time to construct four "tiny houses" for visitors. The little lodges in the Destiny Ridge vineyards fit literally, figuratively and snugly into the winery’s sustainability efforts. “We initially started with glamorous camping tents,” said co-owner Ali Boyle, “but once we saw what a hit ‘glamping’ was, we thought it would be nice to be able to expand the season by converting them to more permanent structures.”

Alexandria Nicole's "Gravity Merlot" tiny house is constructed and decorated entirely with repurposed materials, most from winemaking. (Mattisen Blayne / Courtesy of Alexandria Nicole Vineyards)

These, too, are partly constructed from reclaimed materials. A decorative wall in the “Jet Black Syrah” house is made from repurposed barrel staves, and a bar area was once a stainless-steel fermentation tank. Another of the houses is sided with reclaimed wood, roofed with repurposed tin and lit by a chandelier made of mason jars. “All of the materials used had at one time been used for either the vinicultural, winemaking or tasting room experience,” Boyle said of that house. The winery’s pint-size chalets haven't gone unnoticed: Two of them were featured on an episode of HGTV series Tiny House, Big Living. A fifth house is in the works.

A peek inside the "Jet Black Syrah" house (Mattisen Blayne / Courtesy of Alexandria Nicole Vineyards)

But it isn’t just the New World that’s been opening these vinous inns (vinns?). Spanish Sherry giant González Byass also has new digs for guests in what it dubs a “Sherry hotel.” After several years of planning, the González Byass team unveiled Hotel Bodega Tío Pepe last month, located on the grounds of the 185-year-old winery, in the center of the city of Jerez. According to Beatriz Vergara, González Byass’ corporate director of wine tourism, guests "will be able to stay and soak up even more of Sherry culture and Andalusian gastronomy within the winery itself.”

Hotel Bodega Tío Pepe, named for the beloved fino brand, also breathes new life into old wine structures: The hotel’s 27 rooms have been converted from four cottages that once housed workers and their families. “The connection with wine production is therefore very strong,” Vergara said. Another connection: The architect and three interior designers are González family members.

The pool and bar at Hotel Bodega Tío Pepe overlook the dome of the Jerez Cathedral. (González Byass)

And of course, as Geneseo Inn and Alexandria Nicole’s tiny houses have shown, a new winery hotel wouldn’t be complete without whimsical suite names. Hotel Bodega Tío Pepe organizes theirs in the traditional style, with designations like Oloroso, Palo Cortado and Fino.

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Popping the tab on a can of wine has never tasted so good. A growing number of noteworthy vintners are packaging their wines in aluminum, and in some cases ditching bottles completely. That means consumers can find more wine styles and grape varieties in cans than ever before. This week, we've selected more than a dozen of the highest-rated canned wines from our recent blind tastings.

Canned wine sales continue to skyrocket, with no ceiling in sight. Read our latest news story on the hottest trend in wine packaging.

The quality of canned wines has seriously improved over the past few years. Case in point: Sans Wine Co.'s mouthwatering 2018 Sauvignon Blanc, packed with lemon, lime and tangerine flavors. Husband-and wife owners Jake Stover and Gina Schober tapped the Finley Road Vineyard in California’s Lake County, and aged the wine in stainless steel to keep its flavors fresh and vibrant. Larkin is another Golden State winery that's been elevating canned wines. Founder and winemaker Sean Larkin, who left a career in the sheet metal business to pursue wine, has produced two spotlighted whites this week: his rich 2018 Tin Knocker Sauvignon Blanc from Napa Valley, and his smooth and succulent 2019 Larkan white.

For fans of rosé, Amble+Chase's Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence 2018 is a delicate version offering melon, citrus zest and white cherry flavors. Sparkling canned wines are represented here as well: From Washington's Goose Ridge winery comes the Cascadian Outfitters label and its easygoing, fruit-forward Columbia Valley sparkling rosé.

Top-Scoring Recent Canned Wine Releases

The wines below were reviewed blind in Wine Spectator's Napa and New York offices, decanted into sterile glass bottles to disguise their original packaging and tasted alongside wines bottled in glass.

LARKIN

Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley Tin Knocker 2018

Score: 89 | $12/375ml

WS review: Succulent lemon curd, candied orange zest and subtle Key lime pie notes start off rich and fleshy, but a smooth thread of acidity weaves in and out, leading to a fresh finish. Sold as a 375ml can. Drink now. 1,000 cases made.—MaryAnn Worobiec

SANS WINE CO.

Sauvignon Blanc Lake County Finley Road Vineyard 2018

Score: 89 | $10/375ml

WS review: Intense, with a strong note of lemongrass to the bright, mouthwatering citrus flavors, led by Meyer lemon, lime and tangerine notes. A minerally detail of crushed stone lingers on the finish. Sold as a 375ml can. Drink now. 400 cases made.—M.W.

BROC CELLARS

Love Red North Coast 2019

Score: 87 | $10/375ml

WS review: Firm and juicy pomegranate, blood orange and wild strawberry flavors are fresh and focused. Black tea, dried rose petal and red licorice notes linger. Carignane, Valdiguié and Syrah. Sold as a 375ml can. Drink now. 990 cases made.—M.W.

LARKIN

Larkan White Napa Valley 2019

Score: 87 | $12/375ml

WS review: Ripe melon, peach and citrus flavors are smooth and succulent, with a touch of tangerine and soft acidity. Sauvignon Blanc. Sold as a 375ml can. Drink now. 1,500 cases made.—M.W.

SANS WINE CO.

Riesling Rutherford McGill Vineyard 2019

Score: 87 | $15/375ml

WS review: Features ripe melon, peach and apricot notes, showing off hints of candied ginger, spice and dried flowers on the finish, with moderate acidity. Sold as a 375ml can. Drink now. 200 cases made.—M.W.

For West + Wilder, canning wines is part of a sustainability effort that also happens to produce easy-to-open pairings for cheese plates. (Kim Carroll Photography)

WEST + WILDER

Pinot Noir Russian River Valley NV

Score: 87 | $NA/250ml

WS review: The dried cherry and berry flavors are firm, with notes of hot stone and underbrush that linger on the juicy finish. Sold as a three-pack of 250ml cans for $17. Drink now. 350 cases made.—Kim Marcus

WEST + WILDER

White American NV

Score: 87 | $NA/250ml

WS review: Distinct and aromatic, with honeysuckle overtones to the melon, peach and lemon curd flavors, set on a smooth, succulent frame. Moderate acidity keeps the flavors fresh. Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Muscat and Chardonnay. Sold as a three-pack of 250ml cans for $17. Drink now. 2,250 cases made.—M.W.

BROC CELLARS

Love White California 2018

Score: 86 | $10/375ml

WS review: The peach, pear and tangy lemon flavors show hints of fresh herbs, honey and yellow apple, with soft acidity. Marsanne, Picpoul, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc. Sold as a 375ml can. Drink now. 600 cases made.—M.W.

CASCADIAN OUTFITTERS

Rosé Sparkling Columbia Valley NV

Score: 86 | $5/375ml

WS review: A fruit-forward quaff, with watermelon and strawberry flavors. Sold as a 375ml can. Drink now. 5,000 cases made.—Tim Fish

FERDINAND

Albariño California 2019

Score: 86 | $9/375ml

WS review: Fresh, offering a lean yet mouthwatering mix of lime skin, lemon and green apple flavors, with a subtle floral aroma on the finish. Sold as a 375ml can. Drink now. 418 cases made.—M.W.

MANCAN

Red American NV

Score: 86 | $5/375ml

WS review: Firm, with a hint of black licorice to the dried blackberry and roasted plum flavors. The spicy finish features baker's chocolate accents. Merlot and Zinfandel. Sold as a 375ml can. Drink now. 10,000 cases made.—K.M.

MANCAN

White American NV

Score: 86 | $5/375ml

WS review: Soft and smooth, with focus to the ripe peach, vanilla bean and dried apricot flavors. Shows hints of spice and dried flowers on the finish, accented by fresh acidity. Chardonnay and Viognier. Sold as a 375ml can. Drink now. 10,000 cases made.—M.W.

Food, cans of wine and other items laid out for a picnic

Canned rosé brand Amble+Chase is named for the "ambling" vintners do during their vineyards' growing season, and the "chase" that starts during harvest. (Courtesy of Amble+Chase)

AMBLE+CHASE

Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence Rosé 2018

Score: 85 | $NA/250ml

WS review: Melon, lemon zest and white cherry flavors show a salty undertone in this delicate rosé, with herb details on the finish. Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah. Sold as a four-pack of 250ml cans for $20. Drink now. 12,600 cases made, 12,600 cases imported.—Gillian Sciaretta

14 HANDS

Hot to Trot Red Columbia Valley NV

Score: 84 | $6/375ml

WS review: Soft and fruit-forward, with cherry and toasted spice flavors. Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Franc, Mourvèdre, Pinot Noir and Sangiovese. Sold as a 375ml can. Drink now. 13,900 cases made.—T.F.

VAMOS! VINO

Malbec Argentina NV

Score: 84 | $8/375ml

WS review: Medium-bodied, with light balsam accents to the red berry and dried cherry flavors. Short finish. Sold as a 375ml can. Drink now. 416 cases made, 416 cases imported.—K.M.

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