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Cedar is one of two red blends that Anthony Vietri makes at Va La Vineyards in Avondale, Chester County.
Released in January, this is the 12th vintage of what Vietri calls his signature red, made from nine clones of the Nebbiolo grape (michet, lampia, picotener, chiavennasca and fino, as well as massal selections from this vineyard) and Corvina Veronese. The vines are mostly in their 22nd years of age, according to the vintage notes, and are influenced by a daily blanket of fog emanating from the compost farm next door. They were harvested by hand in October 2016, aged 27 months in barrels sourced from central Pennsylvania and Burgundy, then aged 7 months in bottle before release. The result is a distinctive and unique red wine of Old World character, featuring savory flavors and aromas of wild mushrooms, eucalyptus, clove, and curry.
It sells for $52.
Vietri calls it a wine that probably never should have happened.
“My wife and I planted the first block 22 years ago, on a July 4th day that was 100F. I remember that I broke both of our shovels trying to dig the holes and we had to dig the rest with hand trowels,” he said. “Nebbiolo is a notoriously difficult variety, both in the field and in the winery. Back then there was almost none being grown in the US, so we had no expectation that it would survive or that we’d have anything to offer to the public.”
Some years like this one, he said, “it will literally produce almost nothing. Truly. So to make it, you must be willing to take huge risks to do so. But I come from Piemontese folks, and I just feel a need to make that wine that I can’t really explain, to be honest.”
Soon, he’ll be harvesting his 23rd vintage from those vines (as well as the 16th vintage of Cedar). “There are folks that seem to like it OK, I hope,” he said. “I guess at this point I just think of myself as a Nebbiolo farmer who sometimes makes a little bit of other wines.”
It was another growing season that caused plenty of angst, from what he called a “brutal stretch of weather of late after a real nice start.”
But that’s why it’s a marathon, he said. “Actually it has not been so much of a normal year for us. We started with a late frost, then had a long warm and very dry stretch where the vines were showing drought stress, followed by a deluge of late, and now we are having our first experience with the dreaded lanternflies,” he continued. “However, the vines somehow are holding up ok at the moment.”
Released in January, this is the 12th vintage of what Vietri calls his signature red, made from nine clones of the Nebbiolo grape and Corvina Veronese.
On the whole, he said. the winery has been drawing a “surprising number of first-time visitors to the farm, which is just great to see. But it is true, our wonderful regular customers have really sustained us through these difficult times, and we are truly blessed by them.”
He said they continue to work with the restaurants throughout the Philadelphia area that carry his wines, but “they are definitely fighting to keep things going. We feel very fortunate to be part of what they are doing, and you hate to see the difficulties and challenges that independent and creative places have to face,” he said. “But I truly believe that for those that can hold on and survive these times, we will all be better for it.”
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