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Germany has an odd relationship with the word value – its wines are either dismissed as unimpressive plonk or revered as some of the longest-lived and most expensive wines on the planet; there isn't much middle ground.
This is grossly unfair, of course, but public opinion has never been based on fairness, or even fact. And the bald fact is that Germany offers incredible value, as we shall see.
It's all based around Riesling, of course, the grape that calls Germany home and is responsible for some of the world's best wines. Of course, people don't realize they are some of the world's best wines, because – being Riesling – not enough people have tried them and therefore can't offer an opinion.
The huge weakness of Riesling is this curiously persistent apathy among the general buying public that it engenders. Wine writers, winemakers, sommeliers and self-styled educators the world over adore Riesling, but consumers – who would happily quaff bottles of battery aid if they were labeled Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc – remain immune to its myriad charms.
The one good thing to emerge from this weird disconnect is that riesling remains one of the great value grapes of our age, producing brilliant wines at frankly ridiculous prices – the level of quality on the list below is testament to that, as we shall see presently.
So let's get to the wines, then. For this series of "best value" stories, we work with a more direct point-to-dollar ratio for a simplified "bang for buck" scale than our standard algorithm for suggesting the best value wines. Simply dividing the score by the price gives a value factor and the higher the factor the better the value – a kind of points-per-dollar scale. The higher the value factor, the more points per dollar.
Usually, when we run our superlative lists, we don't take vintage into account, but since vintage variation affects the score so much, we concentrate on individual vintages of wines for our best-value lists.
Best Value German Wines on Wine-Searcher:Given that the top wine on the corresponding Bordeaux list had a value factor of 5.11, you'd be forgiven for thinking Germany was lagging somewhat in the quality and value stakes, but it really isn't. The average value factor for the 10 Bordeaux wines is 2.02 critic points per dollar per wine, while Germany's is 2.55; this means you should only have to spend a shade more than $39 to get a 100-point German wine, while the same money will get you a 79-point Bordeaux. (Obviously, this doesn't necessarily translate to real life, but it's a handy notional illustration of what the value factor actually means.)
The level of quality in the list above is pretty special too, with the wines all carrying aggregates critic scores of 93 or 94. All in all, it's an impressive list of wines, with prices that don't stray north of $40 when it comes to average price. With top scores at good prices, combined with the long-lived nature of German Riesling, it's a wonder these wines aren't more of a target for collectors.
Maybe it's time to take a closer look at the wines of the Rhine and Mosel.
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August 10, 2020 at 07:03AM
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The World's Best Value German Wines - Wine-Searcher
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